Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas - Guía senderista

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Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas.

Montañismo en el Alto Atlas Marroquí.

Idioma: INGLÉS.
Autor: Des Clark.
Publicado 15 Febrero 2011.
1ª edición.
ISBN 9781852846114.

The first English-language guide to winter walking, climbing, scrambling right across the Moroccan High Atlas of North Africa from Taroudant in the south-west to Midelt in the north-east, all accessible from Marrakech. Covers 40 peaks over 3000m, including Jbel Toubkal, Ighil Mgoun, Jbel Tinergwet. For experienced winter walkers.

scrambling, climbing, walking
All routes described can be undertaken in the spring and autumn, but most have been described with a winter ascent in mind.
Taroudant, Marrakech, Imlil, Oukaimeden, Ait Bougammez, Zawat Ahansal, Midelt
Most of the technical climbing grades fall within the Alpine F- to AD range; also included are the author's own grades for remoteness, navigation and commitment.
Must See
all the 4000m peaks in the High Atlas, including Jbel Toubkal in the central region and Ighil Mgoun in the east, and Jbel Tinergwet, Jbel Awlim and the Tichka plateau in the south-west

The High Atlas mountains of Morocco have mountaineering potential galore. With 7 peaks over 4000m, and myriad other remote, little-climbed and poorly mapped summits, the region offers countless challenges for experienced winter climbers and scramblers looking for adventure.

This, the first English-language guide of its kind, outlines walks, climbs and scrambles on 40 peaks right aross the range from Taroudant in the south-west to Midelt in the north-west, all accessible from Marrakech.

  • 50 routes on 40 peaks, all over 3000m, graded for remoteness, navigational difficulty and commitment
  • illustrated with colour sketch maps and photo-diagrams
  • with basic English-Berber glossary and information about mountain refuges

  • Preface


    European exploration
    The Berbers
    Local customs and etiquette
    Building styles
    Plants and flowers
    When to go
    Visas and permits
    Planning and maps
    Tourist information
    Getting to Morocco
    Getting around Morocco
    Mules and porters
    Local guides
    What to take
    Health and safety
    Communication and navigation aids
    Respecting the environment
    Using this guide

    West of Tizi n-Test


    Jbel Tinergwet

    1  Jbel Tingerwet south-west ridge
    2  Jbel Tingerwet west-north-west ridge

    Jbel Awlim

    3  Jbel Awlim south-west ridge
    4  Jbel Awlim south ridge


    5  Imaradene from the east
    6  Imaradene from the south and west


    7  Awlim north-east ridge

    Awrir n-Said

    8  Awrir n-Said west ridge

    Additional routes

    Between Tizi n-Test and Tizi n-Tichka


    Getting to the refuges from Imlil

    Traverses between Lepiney and Toubkal refuges

     9  Toubkal refuges via Tizi Aguelzim
    10  Toubkal refuges via Tizi n-Tadat
    11  Toubkal refuges via Clochetons breche
    12  Toubkal refuges via Tizi Melloul and Tizi Afella


    13  Tazaghart via Tizi Melloul
    14  Tazaghart Diagonal Couloir
    15  Tazaghart Descent Couloir


    16  Biguinoussene from Tizi n-Tadat
    17  Biguinoussene south ridge


    18  Afella via Tizi Melloul
    19  Afella via Aougdal Bou Tiouna


    20  Akioud north-north-west ridge

    Ras and Timesguida n-Ouanoukrim

    21  Ras and Timesguida n-Ouanoukrim east ridge from Tizi n-Ouagane
    22  Ras and Timesguida n-Ouanoukrim north-east couloir
    23  Ras and Timesguida n-Ouanoukrim north-west ridge

    Jbel Toubkal

    24  Jbel Toubkal south cwm south col
    25  Jbel Toubkal north cwm north col
    26  Jbel Toubkal north-east ridge
    27  Jbel Toubkal south-west (Ouanoums) ridge
    28  Jbel Toubkal south-east ridge

    Toubkal West

    29  Toubkal West north-east ridge


    30  Imouzzer north cwm north col south-west ridge


    31  Angour north side ledge
    32  Angour west ridge


    33  Anrhemer west ridge

    Bou Iguenouane

    34  Bou Iguenouane via Amazzer Meqqoren
    35  Bou Iguenouane ridge traverse (north to west-south-west)

    Aksoual and Azrou n-Tamadot

    36  Tizi Likemt to Tizi n-Tagharat traverse

    Additional routes

    East of Tizi n-Tichka       

    Ait Bougammez

    Getting to Tarkeddit refuge

    37  Tarkeddit refuge from Agouti           
    38  Tarkeddit refuge from Sebt Ayt Bou Wlli
    39  Tarkeddit refuge from Tondout

    Ighil Mgoun and Mgoun West

    40  Ighil Mgoun and Mgoun West from Tarkeddit refuge
    41  Ighil Mgoun and Mgoun West north-east ridge (traverse)

    Oumassin and Aslad

    42  Oumassin and Aslad from Tarkeddit refuge


    43  Aklim from Tarkeddit refuge or Tatrarat


    44  Tarkeddit ridge – east to west traverse

    Zawat Ahansal


    45  Ouaougoulzat west summit
    46  Tagafayt


    47  Azurki north-east to south-west ridge traverse
    48  Azurki north face couloirs


    Jbel Maasker

    49  Jbel Maasker via Inifif

    Jbel Ayyachi, Sayd ou Addi and Ichichi n-Boukhlib

    50  Jbel Ayyachi, Sayd ou Addi and Ichichi n-Boukhlib via the Cirque de Jaffar

    Additional routes

    APPENDIX A  Further reading
    APPENDIX B  Useful words and phrases
    APPENDIX C  Route summary table
    APPENDIX D  Refuge summary table

    Deviation from normal south cwm route on Toubkal

    Azib Tamsoult, with good example of terracing

    Mule hire makes load-carrying easy when there’s no snow

    Tizi n-Tajelt, with Jbel Awlim behind – also showing the top of the south ridge on the right

    Tarkeddit refuge

    North-east ridge of Azurki